Cyclist David Millar’s guide to Girona

I moved to Girona in 2006, while I was still a pro cyclist, looking for a European training base. I’d lived in Biarritz for many years but I wanted to try somewhere new. At the time, Girona was a quiet Catalan town people would pass through en route to Barcelona, though some American riders, including Lance Armstrong, had made it their European home. My wife, Nicole, and I visited and almost instantly made up our minds. It was beautiful but nondescript. High-end cycling tourism and the town’s unique way of life have since changed that; now it’s the connoisseur’s choice.

Girona combines cycling with culinary culture. We once had El Bulli in the nearby town of Roses, which was the world’s number one restaurant at the time. Now we have three Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca. Its 24-dish tasting menu is insane – experiential dining at its best. The Roca brothers have really lifted Girona’s dining scene: they also have an ice cream shop, Rocambolesc Gelateria, the Casa Cacao boutique hotel and Restaurant Normal for more traditional Catalan fare.

Cyclists love a café stop, and the coffee you get here is second to none, from Espresso Mafia on the Rambla to the OG cycling café, La Fabrica, in the Old Town. People who’ve lived here since the 1970s tell me the Old Town was feral back then: now it’s simply beautiful. You can walk around the top of the town wall, finishing in the gardens surrounding the cathedral, which starred in Game of Thrones.

Cyclists love a café stop, and the coffee here is second to none

I recommend taking a personalised tour of Girona from local guide, Laura Coch. Girona Bespoke also organises tailor-made outdoor holidays for those who want to immerse themselves in the countryside – which is precisely what we did. After living in an apartment near the railway station for a few years, we moved north of town, near Banyoles. We renovated a farmhouse, where we live with our three children. They all go to local schools, so we’re firmly embedded.

My Spanish is OK, but Catalan is the primary language here. The area is as Catalan as it gets. We’re a 15-minute drive to town, although Nicole and I will park on the edge and complete the journey on our Brompton folding bikes, on a network of cycle paths called “Vias Verdes” (greenways).

When it comes to more challenging rides, I always return to Rocacorba, the most famous climb in the area. I can see it from the window of my study. It’s an amazing road climb: about 1,000 metres of ascent over 10 hard kilometres. I’ve ridden up there with many friends, from Tour de France rider Mark Cavendish to photographer Nadav Kander and Spandau Ballet’s Gary Kemp. The top is a dead end, so you’re literally climbing it for the view from the summit.

We’re spoilt for choice with cycling shops, too. There is Velodrom, a boutique on the Rambla; Eat Sleep Cycle; The Service Course; and Rocacorba Atelier bike rentals. Then there are running shops like Overland Running Provisions and Esports Nabes, owned by a man named Toti, who trained with ultra-running legend Kilian Jornet. One local gem you perhaps wouldn’t expect is Quera, a beautiful jeweller. The models of watches they have are exceptional, including Rolex Submariners and many by Patek Philippe.

Girona is so much more than a cycling town. We have open-water swimming at Lake Banyoles and I can trail-run from the house and feel like I’m in the middle of nowhere. For a lot of pro cyclists, where they live for training becomes a temporary location, but I’m glad I stayed. I’ve lived in six countries, travelled my whole life, and I still think Girona is the most beautiful place on earth. The people are so calm and kind. I couldn’t think of a better place for our kids to grow up.

The new urban cycling footwear collection by CHPT3, David Millar’s brand, is available from 30 August